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Jumping Spider Care Sheet

Practical, crew-tested dog & cat nutrition guides plus reptile, small animal, and Oregon bioactive habitat care sheets from Critter Cabana, updated live from our store database.

Critter Cabana Field Guide • Bold Jumping Spiders

Jumping Spider

Phidippus spp.

The Quick Version: With their fuzzy black coats, big puppy-dog eyes, and shiny metallic-green fangs, Bold Jumping Spiders are the 'octo-kittens' of the bug world! They hunt by sight during the day, tilt their head up to watch your face, and tuck themselves into a cozy silk sleeping bag every night!
Jumping Spider naturalist illustration
Lifespan 1 to 2 years
Adult Size 0.5 to 1 inch
Enclosure Small Vertical Arboreal Enclosure
Warm / Room Temp 70-80°F
Cool Side Breezy Air
Humidity / Water 50-70%

1. Cross-Ventilated Cube & Protecting the Top Web!

Rule #1: NEVER Use a Top-Opening Lid — You'll Rip Their Ceiling Hammock Every Time!
1. SIDE CROSS-VENTILATION Dual Side Vents Prevent Stagnant Air 2. TOP SILK HAMMOCK / MOLT ZONE Front/Bottom-Opening Protects Web! 3. SLANTED CORK OVERHANG Open Clearance Below for Molting ARBOREAL CANOPY SETUP (72–80°F) • MOIST MOSS BASE & WATER DISH • NO OVERHEAD HEAT LAMPS
Bright Daytime Warmth Put a cool-running LED desk light overhead!
74°–82°F
Normal Room Temp Comfortable indoor room temps
70°–78°F
Fine Wall Mist Drops 1–2 light spritzes of tiny droplets on a side wall daily
50–65% RH
Cross-Ventilation Tiny side air holes keep air fresh and mold-free
Breezy Air
Nighttime Sleep Turn lights off at night so they go to bed in their hammock!
65°–72°F

2. Two Great Ways to Set Up Your Habitat

Every Supply Stocked Here at Critter Cabana

Enclosure: Protect Their Ceiling Hammock!

Jumping spiders ALWAYS spin their silk sleeping and molting hammock in the very top ceiling corner:

Option A

Option A: Zilla Arboreal Micro Habitat or Front-Opening Nano Cube (Our Top Pick)

Front-opening doors let you mist and drop bugs in without ever tearing their ceiling web!

Option B

Option B: Bottom-Opening Arboreal Cube

Or flip a clear acrylic cube upside-down so the base is on the table, keeping their upstairs bedroom 100% intact.

How to Give Water (No Open Water Bowls!)

A jumping spider can drown in an open dish or even a giant water puddle:

Option A

Option A: Ultra-Fine Mist Droplets on One Wall Every Morning

Use a fine-mist spray bottle to spritz tiny poppy-seed-sized water beads on one clear wall (never spray straight into their silk hammock!).

Option B

Option B: Damp Q-Tip or Moist Sphagnum Moss Ball at the Bottom

Gives them a safe place to sip moisture with zero drowning risk.

Give Them a Bright Daytime Light!

Unlike tarantulas that love the dark, Jumping Spiders are visual daytime hunters—if the tank is dim, they'll just sit in bed all day:

Option A

Option A: Overhead LED Desk or Plant Lamp (12 Hrs/Day)

A bright, cool-running LED light right over the cube wakes them up and gets them exploring and hunting!

Option B

Option B: Bright Room Desk (NEVER in Direct Window Sun!)

Big Warning: never set an acrylic cube in a sunny window—it turns into a greenhouse oven and hits 105°F in 5 minutes!

3. Feeding by 'Booty Size' (Not a Calendar!)

Check Their Abdomen: Skinny = Hungry • Plump Like a Blueberry = Full!
Young Jumpers Every 2–3 Days
3–5 Flightless Fruit Flies (D. hydei), Pinheads, or Mini Mealworms: Feed until their booty looks nice and round.
Adults Every 3–5 Days
1–2 Small Crickets, Small Dubia Roaches, Blue Bottle Flies, or Mealworms: Bugs about 0.5× to 1× the spider's body size.
Molting Hammock Do Not Feed!
Thick White Silk Cocoon = Molting! When they seal themselves inside a thick white hammock for 1–2 weeks, pull all live bugs out and mist the wall lightly once a day.

Favorite Jumper Snacks We Carry:

Flightless Fruit Flies (Hydei)

Best staple for babies & juveniles

Small Crickets & Dubia Nymphs

Triggers awesome cat-like stalking pounces!

Mini Mealworms & Waxworms

Put in a magnetic wall cup so they can't burrow

Never Leave Crickets Overnight!

A loose cricket can bite a sleeping or molting spider!

The 'Booty Chart' Trick: Spiders don't read calendars! Look at your spider's abdomen from above: if it looks narrow or slightly wrinkly, offer a bug; if it's round and plump like a little berry, skip feeding for a few days so they don't get overstuffed.

4. Four Keys to a Happy, Thriving Jumping Spider

Crew-Tested Husbandry Habits
01

Decorate the Top 2 Inches!

Jumpers spend 90% of their life right under the ceiling! Stick magnetic ledges, walnut hides, and fake flowers up in the top 2 inches of the cube.

02

Leave Molting Spiders Alone

Never poke or try to coax a spider out of a thick white hammock! Just keep spritzing water droplets on the opposite wall daily until they pop out in their fresh coat.

03

Zero Perfumes or Candles!

Scented candles, room sprays, bug spray, and dog flea drops on your hands can be fatal to jumping spiders—always wash hands with plain soap first!

04

Invisible Safety Bungee

Before jumping onto your hand, they glue a tiny invisible silk safety line to your finger! Move slowly so you don't spook them.

Bring-Home Shopping Checklist

Tap items to check them off on your phone while you shop at Critter Cabana.

Front-Opening Cube & Upstairs Decor

Bright LED Light & Fine Mister

Live Feeder Bugs

Complete Reference Notes & Oregon Keeping Guide

Live from Store Care Database
Species: Phidippus spp. (e.g., Regal Jumping Spider, Bold Jumping Spider) | Difficulty: 2/5 — Easy | Hardiness: 3/5 — Moderate

Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply — Keeping Your Pet Healthy & Thriving

At a Glance

Common NameJumping Spider
SpeciesPhidippus regius, Phidippus audax, etc.
OriginWidespread across North America and the Caribbean
Adult Size0.5 to 1 inch
Lifespan1 to 2 years (Males live slightly shorter lives than females)
Diet TypeInsectivore (Flies, small crickets, mealworms)
ActivityDiurnal (Highly active hunters during the daytime)
TemperamentIncredibly curious and intelligent. They will watch you, track your finger, and explore their environment actively.
HandleabilityExcellent. They rarely bite and are known for being very inquisitive, often happily hopping onto an offered hand.
Difficulty2/5 — Easy (A fantastic, engaging starter spider)
Hardiness3/5 — Moderate (Require a very specific feeding and misting routine)
Why We Love Them: Jumping spiders are the "puppy dogs" of the spider world. Unlike tarantulas, which often hide and rely on vibration, jumping spiders have incredible eyesight. They will look right at you, tilt their heads, and actively hunt their prey using calculated, precise jumps.

Housing & Enclosure

Terrarium Setup

  • Type: Arboreal. They prefer to climb and build their web hammocks at the very top of their enclosure.
  • Size: They are very small. A 4x4x8 inch or 5x5x9 inch acrylic enclosure (like those from Tarantula Cribs or Zilla Micro Habitats) is perfect.
  • The "Front-Opening" Rule: Because jumping spiders build their hammock nests at the top corners of the enclosure, do not use a top-opening enclosure. If you open the top, you will rip their nest apart every time you feed them. Use a front-opening or bottom-opening enclosure.

Substrate & Decor

  • Substrate: A thin layer of Coco Coir (Eco-Earth) or paper towel to hold a little humidity.
  • Decor: Fill the top half of the enclosure with fake foliage, cork bark tubes, and twigs. They need anchor points near the ceiling to build their hammocks.

Environment & Husbandry

Temperature & Lighting

  • Temperature: Standard room temperature (70-80°F) is perfect. They do not need external heat mats.
  • Lighting: Jumping spiders are diurnal, visual hunters. They require a bright environment to hunt successfully. Provide a bright LED light near their enclosure during the day (but ensure it doesn't overheat the tiny enclosure).

Water & Humidity

  • Misting: Do not put a water dish in the enclosure; they can easily drown. Instead, use a fine mist spray bottle to mist one side of the enclosure wall every 1-2 days. They will drink the water droplets off the acrylic.
  • Aim for 50-70% humidity. Ensure the enclosure dries out between mistings to prevent mold.

Diet & Feeding

  • Staple Diet: They prefer flying prey but will eat a variety of insects.
  • Slings (Babies): Flightless fruit flies (D. melanogaster or D. hydei).
  • Adults: Blue bottle flies, small crickets, or small mealworms.
  • Feeding Schedule: Feed 1-2 items every 3 to 5 days. Watch their abdomen size; if it looks round and plump, they are full. If it looks shriveled or thin, feed them.
  • Hunting: They stalk their prey like cats and pounce. Remove any uneaten prey (especially crickets) after a few hours so it doesn't bite the spider while it sleeps.

Molting

  • When preparing to molt, the spider will build an extra-thick, white hammock and seal itself inside.
  • Do not disturb the hammock or feed the spider while it is inside. Continue to lightly mist the outside wall so it stays hydrated, and wait for it to emerge on its own.

What We Stock & Use in Our Stores

CategoryProductNotes
HousingZilla Micro Habitat (Arboreal)Excellent front-opening design
DecorZoo Med Cork Bark BranchesProvides essential climbing structure
HydrationExo Terra Fine Mister Spray BottleEssential for providing drinking droplets
DietFlightless Fruit Flies / Small CricketsThe best active prey for hunters

Care sheet compiled by Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply.

Last updated: 2026-08-04

How We Keep Them at Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply

  • Oregon Winter Furnace Air vs. Molting Humidity: When Pacific Northwest furnaces kick on from October through April, indoor room humidity drops fast and dries out small enclosures from the top down. Rather than misting the spider or invert directly (which stresses terrestrial species and invites stagnant mold), we keep Jumping Spider at 50-70% by using a deep moisture-retaining substrate bed (ReptiSoil + Coco Fiber + Sphagnum Moss), overflowing the water dish slightly into one corner, and maintaining cross-ventilation.
  • Safe Room Heating in the Willamette Valley: If your house drops below 65°F on winter nights, never stick a heat pad on the bottom of a burrowing invertebrate tank—they dig down to escape heat and will cook themselves. Use a low-wattage side-mounted heat mat on a digital thermostat or warm the room ambiently to 70-80°F.
  • Stocked at Newberg & Gresham: At Critter Cabana (Newberg) and Gresham Pet Supply, we stock acrylic and glass invertebrate enclosures, cork bark flats and tubes, bioactive substrates, flightless fruit flies (D. melanogaster and D. hydei), pinhead to adult crickets, dubia roaches, and live Temperate White Springtail and Isopod cultures.

Common Questions (FAQ)

How do I keep my Jumping Spider warm and humid enough during an Oregon winter?

Target 70-80°F and 50-70%. When Oregon winter furnaces dry out the air, use a deep 3–5 inch substrate mix of Zoo Med ReptiSoil and coco fiber, keep a shallow water dish filled, and dampen one corner of the substrate rather than misting the animal directly. Never put a heat mat underneath a burrowing invertebrate enclosure.

What size enclosure does a Jumping Spider need?

An adult Jumping Spider thrives in Small Vertical Arboreal Enclosure with secure ventilation. For terrestrial tarantulas and scorpions, floor space and deep substrate matter most (keep open fall height low so heavy-bodied species cannot rupture their abdomen); for arboreal species, prioritize vertical cork bark tubes and cross-ventilation.

Can I put isopods in a Jumping Spider bioactive enclosure?

Around molting tarantulas and scorpions, skip protein-hungry large isopods and stick to Temperate White Springtails (or gentle Dwarf White isopods in humid detritivore setups) so a soft, newly molted animal is never nibbled.

Where can I find Jumping Spider, cork bark, and feeder insects in Oregon?

We stock live invertebrates, tarantulas, jumping spiders, cork bark flats and tubes, bioactive substrates, and gut-loaded feeder insects at our two exotic animal stores: Critter Cabana in Newberg (514 E First St, 503-537-2887) and Gresham Pet Supply (2185 NW Burnside Rd, 503-665-7606).

Questions about your Jumping Spider setup?

Our crew at Critter Cabana is happy to help you test water, pick the right thermostat and lighting, or mix a custom bioactive substrate. Call us at (503) 537-2570.

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